PUNK ROYALE LONDON: 23 COURSES, CAVIAR BUMPS AND LOCKED PHONES

By Sophie Clark | Muck Rack Portfolio | Press Invite

When I was 22, I got laughed at by a bartender at a punk bar for ordering a gin martini with a twist. I thought it was rather punk of me to have a “signature drink,” but apparently I should have stuck to beer. All to say, I wonder what that bartender would think about Punk Royale, a caviar-centric restaurant in the famously punk neighbourhood of…Mayfair.

Punk Royale, originally from Stockholm, now has a permanent posting on Sackville Street. Although the menu is experimental and subject to change, the Mayfair outpost comes with the restaurant’s signature “caviar bumps.”

As soon as my friend and I were ushered in, we were walked up to the open kitchen counter and greeted with a lump of caviar on our hands to slurp up and a shot of vodka to chase it down.

This is not very punk of me at all, but I wish they’d given us hand towels before the bumps instead of after. My hands were really grimy after battling the tube-strike crowds on the way there and I ingested a whole lot of London with those eggs. That said, it was delicious caviar, and I enjoyed the once-in-a-lifetime experience of necking it down with some crisp vodka poured from a petrol can. Can’t say I’ve ever done that before.

After the “bumps,” we were seated at our table and the first truly punk thing of the night occurred: our phones were put into a lock box and taken away.

I loved this.

It felt miraculous not to look at my phone for two hours. I kept hand-written notes on all 23 courses, yes 23, and was able to have a proper conversation with my friend and with the genuinely lovely restaurant staff (when I could see them through the smoke periodically pumping through the restaurant à-la a university nightclub, that is).

I was worried that not being able to take photos of every course would hamper my memory of the meal, but I actually remember it better because I had to rely on my senses to take in the night.

Throughout the courses, there were some real gems. My absolute favourite course was the razor clams with a butter, parsley, and jalapeno sauce. Fortunately for me, my +1 didn’t like clams, so I got to eat it twice. Thank you!

I also loved the lobster and mushroom spoon, the tuna tartare with sesame, the frozen cappuccino, and the madeline with cardamom. I was particularly grateful that there were multiple deserts, as I was worried sweet treats would be forgotten amid all of the fish dishes.

Not all of the courses were winners for me, but I’m sure the chicken liver could appeal to other diners, as could the crispy waffle with eel paste. Maybe my taste buds are not Nordic enough just yet.

Despite the heavy price tag – £220 per person – the restaurant was not pretentious about its food, and the courses, although small, felt filling at the end of the night.

The wine was also delicious, especially the Riesling and the dessert wine. You’ll have to book a table there to find out how the dessert wine is served.

If you’re looking to spend a lot of money on a culinary experience, then I would definitely recommend Punk Royale. Despite my affinity for cynicism when it comes to gimmicks, everyone who worked there seemed genuinely lovely and passionate about the food. The meal was very good, and it’s certainly a dining experience that I will remember for a long time.

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